Writeups - Extended Brake Lines
Now
that I lifted my Bronco 4" I needed to swap out the stock brake lines
with extended ones. I've had a week to let the many bumps on my head
heal from the lift install and just about have all the grease and grime
out of my fingernails. It's time to get dirty again.
Beforehand I bought 1 quart of brake fluid, new front brake pads and a
vacuum pump to self bleed the brakes.
First
jack up the Bronco and put good jack stands under the frame. With the
lift it is surprising how much flex you get. Even lifting the frame
about 6" just in front of the skid plate where the frame is flat the
tires will still touch when you let the jack down. After placing jack
stands on both sides of the frame jack the front axle up just enough to
remove the front tires. I had two jacks so I could remove both at the
same time.
The
most important item to check - recheck - keep checking on is the fluid
level in your brake fluid reservoir. If you overflow it you will make
quite a mess and if it runs out, well that requires another write-up.
Just keep track of the fluid level. It's easy to do when the brake fluid
is this dirty.
Tools used:
Safety Glasses
Ear Protection
3 ton Jack
3 ton Jack Stands
Large Hammer
Large Hex wrench (to remove the springs holding the brake pads)
Large Channel Locks (to squeeze in the caliper piston)
Metric & SAE socket set and wrenches
Needle Nose pliers Long straight and 90 degree bent
SAE Screwdriver
Brake Line Wrench (Should have used)
Vacuum Pump Self Bleeder
Stuff to have on hand:
Extended Brake Line Kit
At Least 1 Quart DOT 3 Brake Fluid
Rust Remover
Carb or Brake Cleaner
Since
I had the tires off anyway I decided to change the front brake pads so I
will include it in the write-up. First use a large pair of channel locks
to slowly but firmly press the piston on the caliper in enough to take
the pressure off the brake pads.
Next you will have to bang out the two retaining pins holding the
caliper in place. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze them and tap the end
in with a hammer. "The Book" says to use a punch to drive the pins out
but the pliers with the 90 degree bend made it easy to grab and pull
them out.
With the pins removed pull the caliper out and remove the brake pads.
The inside pad stays by the rotor and the outside pad comes out with the
caliper. Next use the channel locks to firmly squeeze the cylinder until
it is completely seated in the base of the caliper. Remember to check
the reservoir fluid level.
Place in the new pads, slide the caliper in place and re-insert the
pins. Use a hammer to bang them into place. Do the same to the other
side. Congratulations, you now know how to change your own brakes.
Now on to the brake line replacement. The drivers side brake line is
slightly different than the passenger side. It has one additional line
connected at the top. Otherwise they are the same. Unless you want brake
fluid all over the place ( you will anyway) get something together
to plug up the brake lines while you have them disconnected. I used the
tips of a sharpened pencil. I kept sharpening it and cutting off the tip
until I had a half dozen.
Now remove the top 11mm brake line(s) from the line you are going to
replace. It is recommended that you use a brake line wrench since they
are soft metal and can strip very easily. I didn't and did strip one on
the back - more later. Definitely spray some rust remover beforehand.
Carefully plug the lines to hold the flow of brake fluid from ruining
your favorite clothes.
Now the fun begins. There is an "easy clip" that is anything but easy to
remove. It holds the brake line you are replacing in place. You can't
hardly get to it to see how to remove it but you need to pull one end
over the end of the brake line and slide it strait out. The pictures
included should help a lot since the camera will go where the body wont.
Plus having it out helps. It helps to remove the retaining clip on the
outside to relieve pressure on the "easy clip" but leave it installed on
the new brake line when replacing the "easy clip". I learned this with
trial and error so you don't have to.
Now remove the lower end of the brake line with a 14mm wrench. This is
easy compared to the previous part. Place the bottom of the new brake
line making sure that the crush rings are removed and replaced (copper
washers) tighten it down. Next reconnect the 11mm brake line(s) on top.
Wasn't that fun? it's time for a break, and oh yeah, have you been
watching the break reservoir to make sure it didn't run dry? I know you
have.
OK
now on the the back line. Since you worked so hard Ford thought you
might need a break. First there is only one line to replace and second
the "easy clip" is really an easy clip. The replacement is pretty much
the same as the front but slightly different. The top is the familiar
11mm with the easy clip that pulls straight out. It is easiest to do
this from the front of the axle. Plug it and move behind the axle to
remove the axle breather. I'm sorry I don't know the nut size since
previous owner stripped and broke the bolt then siliconed it back on.
Use a large pair of vice grips to hold the center section at the end of
brake line steady and remove the 11mm brake lines at either end. This is
where I stripped one of the nuts and had to get another pair of channel
locks to remove and reinstall it. Re-install the top brake line and call
this part done.
Now there is a lot of air in your brake lines and you can't drive to
Jiffy-Lube to have them bled. You can have a friend play the old game of
pump - pump - hold for hours while you try to get the air out or do it
the new way. Buy a $25 vacuum pump for bleeding brakes. If you are
unfamiliar with bleeding brakes, start from the rear passenger side,
rear drivers side, front passenger side and last front drivers side.
This is the most important time to keep track of your brake fluid
reservoir level. While you might not pull out that much fluid, you are
pulling out a lot of air that is being replaced by fluid. I also wasn't
happy with the dirtiness of the current brake fluid and kept pumping
until the new clear stuff was showing. I used the full quart and had a
second standing buy but didn't need it. The back bleeder valves are 3/8"
and the front ones are 11mm. When you feel you have all the air out pump
the brake petal and if it feel good and stiff you should be done. drive
it a few feet and check the brakes before going full speed.
Since the write-up I have been asked how well the vacuum pump worked and
where did I buy it. I purchased it from Autozone for $25. I have also
seen a similar kit at Harbor Freight Tools for $29. They sell it online.
The one I purchased has a few more connections to do other things vacuum
pumps do but this is what I purchased it for.
In
the past I have bled the brakes on many cars and it can be a chore
making sure you and a second person coordinate your moves and it takes a
while to get it just right. I was a little skeptical about using this
contraption but I can say it worked out perfectly. I was able to bleed
the brakes solo and it only took about 1/2 an hour to not only bleed
them but completely flush out the old brake fluid.
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